SHAW & SMITH WINES South Australia, Adelaide Hills
The
Shaw and Smith wines are collectively as sleek, elegant and beguiling
as they have ever been. The increase in quality since they moved
into their own winery in 2000 continues to be evident, and there
is an excitement about each of the wines that has made them one
of the most successful producers in our portfolio.
While the Sauvignon
Blanc remains their flagship wine, with Martin Shaw
convinced that the 2005 is the best they have produced since they
started in 1990, there is no doubt that the title for their best
wine is a fiercely fought battle between the ‘M3
Vineyard’ Chardonnay and the Shiraz.
Both were stars from the stunning 2002 vintage, yet the 2003 Chardonnay,
rich and forward, and the supple and rippling Shiraz, are both highly
successful successors.
The M3 vineyard, planted at Woodside in the Adelaide
Hills in 1994, is now producing some outstanding Chardonnay, Sauvignon
and Merlot, but it is only in the last couple of vintages that the
eponymous Chardonnay has vaulted Shaw & Smith into the top rank
of Australia’s Chardonnay producers. It is subtle, supple
and elegant, the oak beautifully integrated with the fruit. As it
spends more time in the bottle, its manifold complexity becomes
increasingly evident. Though it is without doubt one of Australia’s
best Chardonnays, this is not reflected in the price.
The Shiraz
is a bit of a surprise. Neither Michael nor Martin thought that
the Adelaide Hills were warm enough to ripen Shiraz properly. But
in 2000, they made some wine for somebody else using fruit from
a vineyard in Macclesfield, one of the warmer spots in the Hills.
The wine impressed them so much that they sought out the grower
and persuaded him to plant a vineyard that was contracted solely
to Shaw and Smith. One taste of the wine illustrates that they were
not recipitate in their action. The wine is spicy yet ripe, with
superb elegance and balance, a thoroughly modern Aussie Shiraz.
The Unoaked Chardonnay displays a wonderful purity
of fruit, remaining Australia’s outstanding example of this
embattled style. Like the Sauvignon Blanc, this too is now sealed
under stelvin.
The progress being made by Shaw & Smith is further
illustrated by their Merlot. The structured
plummy fruit makes this an impressive wine. As quality has improved,
the price has come down, making it superb value. Despite being regarded
as white wine specialists, the convincing Merlot and the new Shiraz
are bound to cement their reputation as producers of classically
elegant reds.
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